5 December 2007 - Pirate Deck Party

5th December 2007 - Pirate Deck Party

Tonight we had to dress up as pirates for a deck party (see pictures of us and Donald and Jackie who share our table for dinner). A good time was had by all.

5 December 2007 - Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia

5th December 2007 - Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia

The ship's master, with the assistance in particular of the pilot on board, managed to pull a 'rabbit out of a hat' and at very short notice and obtain an additional unscheduled stop in addition to Bora Bora which had been a wash out. It was agreed that we should visit Rangiroa which is in the Tuamotu islands, 'en route' from the Society islands (Tahiti and Bora Bora) to the Marqueses islands (Nuka Hiva). Another textbook example of a coral island, but this time a complete ring of fringing islands (motu) with no central island which had, evidently, sunk into the lagoon. In fact, Rangiroa is the second largest coral atoll on the globe (only Kwajalein in the Marshall islands - where our ship is registered - is bigger). It takes two hours to cross the central lagoon at the longest extent and it is not possible, looking across the lagoon, to see the far islands. There is only one entrance to the lagoon for a ship the size of MSVG and the two thousand or so souls who live on this 75 mile ring mainly populate two small villages on either side of the channel. Apart from a brief spell of 15 minutes or so the rain held off all day.

Travelscope really earned their money this day which, more or less, made up for the disappointments of missing Nuie and Roratonga and the wash-out at Bora Bora. We were give access to a private beach, lagoon-side, next to the Kia Ora luxury resort. The beach was super, the sea was great and the barbie they laid on was stupendous - grills and booze etc. M and D elected to take the tender and walk the mile and a half to the beach along the Pacific coast road where the sea was wild. On the return journey at the entrance to the lagoon, there was a considerable tidal gradient and associated flow which we thought the ship would have real trouble navigating. The maelstrom was every bit as energetic as the real thing which we saw in Norway last year. Back on the boat, we did indeed plough through this rough passage and were thronged with loads of sea birds and a posse of dolphins, which like the men on the beach with the rods and lines were all fishing; just like in the real maelstrom in north Norway. All in all, a good, chill-out day on a classic tropical desert island with decent weather and good food and booze.

4 December 2007 - Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia

4th December 2007 - Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia

Managed to get ashore at this stop. However, all trips were cancelled as it was tipping it down (see pics) and continued to do so all day, at least until we were back on the ship when there was a brief respite for about half an hour when it kicked off again.

We were going on a 4-wheel drive tour but ended up swimming to the local shops where we purchased some Christmas presents and a bottle of hot sauce from the general store. A great pity really because as can be seen, this is a truly beautiful island with a textbook geography of a central volcanic island surrounded by a fringing reef with islands (known locally as motus).
Everyone felt both disappointed and frustrated by the day, particularly as we had lost the two stops at Nuie and Rarotonga immediately before Tahiti. For passengers who embarked at Fiji the trip was turning into a disaster!

2 December 2007 - Tahiti & Mo'orea, Society Islands, French Polynesia

2nd December 2007 - Tahiti & Mo'orea, Society Islands, French Polynesia

Having missed out on Nuie and Rarotonga where the sea was too high to get people onto tenders - although landing would have been possible - we arrived at Tahiti a day and a half early, on Sunday morning rather than Monday evening. However, we also had the promise of an extra stop at Bora-Bora, all being well. We were able to disembark very early - at about 8am - and this being French, we had no problems with the cash machines. In fact, we had decided on the basis of both advice and documentation to spend the day on Mo'orea, a neighouring island where we decided to treck.

We had our Pacific francs and our round-trip ferry tickets by 8.20 so paid a brief visit to the Syndicate d'Initiative (Tourist Office) where we obtained good info on all French Polynesian islands from friendly, English-speaking staff. We boarded the ultra modern ferry just before 9.00 for the short 30 minute crossing. Being a Sunday, there were a few folk on it; some American tourists and a good number of French local residents, but not that many indigenes at the weekend. On arriving at the terminal at Mo'orea we plotted our route which we figured would take 2 hours - according to the Lonely Planet guide book - but it did say take a guide too!
The trip took over five hours, most of which was glorious and in virgin rain forest. And yes, it did rain, but in the jungle, you don't get wet; the tall trees take the hit. We had great views of stunning landscapes, came across a bamboo jungle, giant firns and no end of different trees. The going was very hard at times with steep, slippery slopes both up and down and paths, once maintained, that had been degreaded on the edge of steep slopes. Quite an experience, but M did get a bit messy having fallen half a dozen times!

Still, the downside was that by the time we got back to the ferry port all the stores were closed, it being a Sunday and we could only get water at the filling station. We did though get a beer on the ferry back to Pape'ete.

That evening we had an excellent Chinese meal at one of the hawker stands near the ship. However, the heavens opened and we only just avoided a serious soaking. All in all, a very good day after our ealier disappointments.

30 November 2007 - Rarotonga, Cook Islands

30th November 2007 - Rarotonga, Cook Islands

We were unable to disembark at this stop as the sea was too rough to use the tender boats to ferry the Van Gogh passengers ashore. The swell was 1.5 to 2 metres and it was far too dangerous to leave the ship. However, we took some photos from the deck of the Van Gogh (see pics).

27 November 2007 (Mark 2) - At Sea

27th November 2007 (Mark 2) - At Sea

Our second November 27th was spent cruising from Suva to Alofi in Niue (see map). Nothing much of consequence happens on the high seas. Mandi went to the craft class and made a card. David went to see the movie Deja Vous. The masterpieces that have been created in the Art Classes were put on display on deck 5. Dinner was dreadful and afterwards there was a show with comedian Jon Bell.

We both received certificates, signed by the Captain, stating that we had crossed the International Date Line.

27 November 2007 (Mark 1) - Suva, Fiji

27th November 2007 (Mark 1) - Suva, Fiji

Having arrived the previous evening, but advised not to walk around Suva at night, we took in an choir excellent choir show on board; a group that had come from one of the outer islands.
Departed the boat fairly early to top up our cash and despatch the blog updates, we revisited our Australian problem of having difficulty extracting cash from the ATMs. Aussie banks, of course; they really do need to get their act together. So we were obliged, yet again, to use credit cards for cash, which meant a visit back to the ship. Obtained cash and despatched our blog - and whilst we were at it, picked up pictures from the net of the cruise liner which went down in the Antarctic. We then spent a fruitless hour trying to find an office supplier with the correct cartridges for M's printer to no avail (take 1) but picked up some useful material from a helpful lady in the tourist office. Did a bit of shopping for the Fijian deck party - to try and look the part. (D purchased a formal sarong and M a real grass skirt and Jean Paul Gaultier/Madonna conical bra made of palm leaves). Returned to the boat for lunch.

In the afternoon we went down the main drag, Victoria Parade, to the government buildings and the Presidential Palace. We chatted to a bloke who turned out to be a wood whittler, but got good measure for our $20 'objet d'art' as he took us around the inside of the buildings (which are now the Court of Appeal) where the first coup took place; gave us a potted history of the colonial era showing statues of the leader who signed Fiji over to Queen Victoria; showed us Albert Park where the plane on the first crossing of the Pacific landed (now a cricket and football ground for Indians); and showed us the Thurston botanical gardens within which was the museum. We then resumed our search (take 2) for printer ink, which took us to three locations and proved equally abortive - although the most promising had just closed when we arrived. D puts this down to a diversion to procure M's requisite embroidered T sheet; but she as the satisfaction of this being the only store in Suva where such embroidered T-shirts were to be found. It started to rain around 6 pm so we returned to the ship.

Suva, interestingly (if you're interested in this sort of thing) is very similar to other former British colonial towns, particularly in India according to M, but not unlike parts of the middle east where the Brits stayed such as Baghdad and Amman and also KL and Penang. One common feature not found at home is very high curbs and, in wetter climes, deep but narrow open storm drains - smelly, a bit like Penang. Unfortunately, these former British cities don't stand comparison aesthetically with their French colonial counterparts such as Noumea - but then the French are still there. French colonial cities are, by and large, clean, modern, chic and expensive. Suva was vibrant, energetic and inexpensive but also chaotic, mucky and a bit worse for wear - and dangerous after dark with police actively turning around our companions on the ship - even guys well over 6feet and 15 stone in a group. As Rugby fans know, some Fijians come even larger! Still we got excellent and very helpful and friendly service in shops and were always advised to look after our personal possessions; but the reality for us was not threatening. The country needs tourists and it is inexpensive - as long as you can afford to get there.

At 23:59, after we left port, we crossed the International Date Line and began the 27th November all over again!