20th February 2008, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
A day we had been awaiting for a considerable time; the guidebook says 'the dream way to arrive in Sydney is, of course, by ship cruising in below the great coat-hanger of the Harbour Bridge to tie up at the Overseas Passenger Terminal; and we did just that! We arrived between the Heads just after lunch having espied the great city from about 20 miles distance. The cruise in was majestic as we turned south into Port Jackson, past Manly cove and Middle Head, passing North Harbour and Middle Harbour before we again turned west to pass the Opera House and under the Harbour Bridge. We were the centre of attraction - but fear this was only a dress rehearsal for, at the end of the week Queen Victoria - on her maiden voyage and Queen Mary - the largest passenger ship in the world - were both due at Sydney. The approach was no less interesting for this fact and, unlike these larger vessels, we were able to pass under the bridge and enter Darling Harbour (see pics).
On our arrival - two hours earlier than scheduled - we contacted Andy Spencer who worked with D at MVM over the period when M didn't. We arranged to meet up with Andy later in the afternoon on the corner of King and George, near both his office and our terminal and pretty much in the centre of Sydney. We walked past the top of Hyde Park and St Mary's Cathedral and across the Domain to the Art Gallery and on past the Andrew 'Boy' Charlton outdoor pool (where Andy swims most mornings) and on to Mrs Macquarie's Point in the Botanical Gardens - so named because this is where the aforementioned lady looked out for the return of her governor husband following his trips to other settlements in the colony. M, of course, sat in her seat on the headland. We then headed round Farm Cove and into the beautiful Royal Botanical Gardens where we saw a wide range of birds and many fruit bats, as well as a wide range of manicured flora. At the end of the gardens is Government House, which is nowadays significantly overshadowed by the former Sydney Transport Tram Shed - now resurrected as the Sydney Opera House. This building is now over 35 years old but is as pristine and magnificent as when first built. We walked all the way round the building and then stopped off for a beer, taking pics all along the way. Notwithstanding that we were adjacent to the Opera House - but where many office workers took their post working day first beer - this was where we learned that Sydney is not as inexpensive as Cairns (three schooners - nearer half than three quarters of a pint - cost over a tenner). This was a most welcome interlude though, with a fabulous view of Sydney Cove and Circular Quay, the hub of the Sydney Harbour Ferry system where passenger boats go everywhere from Parramatta to Manly.
Next, we lingered at Circular Quay before ambling to The Rocks, immediately under the bridge and where the first settlement proper was established. There remain a good number of heritage buildings in this area from the nineteenth century, which for Oz is serious history. We checked out Wharf House and Custom House and the restaurants at Campbell’s Cove before settling for an evening meal at The Thai Canteen, located on the ground floor of a restored Sailors' Home, described as the 'cheaper version of the much-praised but pricey downstairs restaurant'. Cheaper, rather than cheap but it was excellent and had a 'chef's hat' in its own right. This appears to be a local version of Michelin stars.
After eating we walked much of the length of George street to the Town Hall calling in at one of Andy's regular beer haunts for a couple of drinks, also located in a restored heritage building and passing through one of the fine Victorian shopping arcades saved from redevelopment. We doubled back via Darling Harbours to the ship terminal to complete a comprehensive afternoon and evening tour of Sydney which, after nearly ten years Andy clearly knows very well. We think we may have walked five kilometres, but that's probably an exaggeration.
